Summer , however is for climbing and mountaineering, and we are also the choice for top climbers. Liz Jones signed up for a week of high level climbing at the start of September. Autumn can be a great choice for Alpine climbing for three reasons. First the weather can be stable and storm-free, secondly because it is out of the main tourist season and feels less hectic and more peaceful. Thirdly, cooler temperatures can lead to better snow conditions. i.e firmer and s
afer underfoot.The first face we climbed was the north face of the Aiguille du Peigne. The route we chose was the classic 'Le Ticket Le Rond le Lune'. The style of climbing is a series of 'laybacks' with feet flat on the wall.
The second route we climbed was the Michel Piola classic 'Indiana Jaune' on the limestone of the Arve Valley. The route is located on the cliff of Maladiere which is around 300m high and extremely steep. Limestone has less friction than granite, and as a general rule more finger strength is needed. Indianna Jaune is 10 pitches, and is so steep it stays dry in rain!
The third big climb of the week was the South East Face of the 'Petit Clocher de Portalet'. This lies in Switzerland, at the eastern end of the Mont Blanc massif. The Portalet is a striking tooth of granite, often admired by climbers on there way to the Orny refuge.
The route follows the lest skyline and is again very steep and sustained.I think climbing and skiing are similar in that both sports get better and better, as ones skill level increases. It was a real pleasure to climb these difficult and beautiful climbs.
Well done Liz and see you next year.
Matt Dickinson
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