If culturally my senses are being swamped, then thank goodness for one consistency... powder snow. I knew skiing in Kashmir was good, but as I'd had some of my best skiing ever there last January my expectations were high. However, I'm delighted to report that despite overall warmer temperatures Aperwhat Mountain yielded some outstanding skiing to without doubt re-confirm, in my humble opinion, its position in the 'White Planet' premier league.
My concerns about skiing in Kashmir, the few I have, centre not on the security situation but on the popularity of Gulmarg outstripping the Jammu and Kashmir government's ability to develop the resort. Not surprisingly, with the effects of the credit crunch kicking in and the tragic events of Mumbai, visitor numbers this winter are lower but this is artificial and before long curry powder hunters will exceed the gondola's capability to move them up the mountain. There's talk of development plans afoot; a new chair onto Mary's shoulder and a Kiwi heli-ski operation out to the beautiful Sunshine Peak range. I watch this space though with trepidation as more lifts and helicopters, whilst bringing greater opportunity, will of course change the flavour of Gulmarg. A dilemma I'll just have to deal with if and when it happens.
For Mountain Tracks considerable operational improvements have taken place since last year. Most notably at the Highlands Park Hotel where its dynamic owner is making great strides to deliver top quality comfort and amenities to his guests, whilst retaining the hotels fantastic 'Raj' character and position as the resorts leading hotel. So an end to hot water problems with fully functioning en suite bathrooms complete with Italian baths! No fruit shortages and excellent Indian wines at the bar. Yes, alas, wireless technology has arrived though I'm not convinced it isn't hand powered such was the connection speed?! The hot tub arrives next year!
On the mountain, improvements are harder to spot, though to be fair the gondola was working reasonably well most of the time. It wouldn't be Kashmir if issuing the tickets wasn't a highly complex game of guesswork every day! Without doubt the success of getting the mountain (and the lift) open is down to the tireless and often thankless work of the Chief Snow Safety officer Brian Newman - this year ably supported by Jamie Owen - keeping up the pressure to see that the other parties: the Army (for explosives), the ski patrol and the lift company all deliver their part. Thanks Brian I hope you can be persuaded to stay on next year?
Fascinating as Gulmarg is, culturally it is still a cotton wool Kashmiri experience for us tourists, so its great to try the fully immersed version that hits you in Srinigar. This bustling city of five million souls cluttered around the clear expanses of Dal Lake is Dickens' London on curry if it weren't for the motor car and their horns! Away from the chaotic streets, paddling around the lakes in a 'shikara' bartering with the floating jewelers, flourists and papermache merchants and indulging in the faded oppulence of the house boats is a 'must do' part of your holiday.
If there's one thing that I dread about India its the endless game of tipping, so the first most refreshening thing I learnt about Japan, as I waited to board my flight from Delhi to Tokyo, is that you don't tip in Japan... phew! I like the place already! I think I'm one of those people who like to be tidy and organised, full of good intentions, but when it comes to it I never quite fulfill the wish. So coming to Japan is scary and oh so good for me. I could fill this blog quite easily with endless examples of how clean, organised, efficient, polite, disciplined etc this country is. Quite frankly I'm impressed, after Kashmir (love the place as I do), its a wonderful breath of fresh air.
So Japan works but what of the skiing 'cus thats why I'm here? Well you can believe the hype, it's official...the snow is everything you may have heard, deep and light, best powder ever, period! Fortunately the powder makes up for its one downfall; the runs are considerably shorter than we are used to in Europe (and Kashmir) and a lot of the terrain is quite flat. It's so deep that anywhere else if the snow wasn't 100 times lighter than cotton wool, you wouldn't be able to move! The bottom line is you with snow this light you can forgive all shortcomings. In every other way it matches up superbly; beautiful views, paper trees par excellence and a lift system bordering on Huxley's new world.
The Mountain Tracks inaugural trip to Japan is based in Furano on Japan's northern island of Hokkaido, in my next installment I'll go into more detail of where we've been and what we've been up to in the meantime enjoy the pictures... Nick
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