A 17 year old girl on her first trip to the Alps was waiting for her turn to snowplough down a nursery slope in Zermatt as a group of weather-beaten, rucksack wearing; tight turning skiers appeared over the hill.
“Where did they come from?”
“Chamonix. They’ve just finished the Haute Route.”
She wonders if she’ll ever be good enough to do that.
Fast forward 33 years and I’m walking up the steps of the Couronne Hotel in Argentiere, skis in hand, rucksack on my apprehensive shoulders.
That evening Matt, our guide, talks us through the tour and asks what we’ve done before. Experience differs widely and we’re all looking forward to the challenges ahead. The banter begins and later, draught Leffe induces more laughter as the group begins to gel.
The next evening my bed is covered with a big mound of kit. We’ve had a warm up day and are getting ready to go. There’s much debate about what to take or leave behind. Ruthless decisions are made in the quest for a lighter pack.
6.30 alarm, breakfast, boots and off, heart thumping.
The next 5 days are a patchwork of sights, sounds, snow, sun, seracs, soup and skinning. Laughter threads the whole thing together. Long traverses lead to climbs where a steady uphill rhythm grinds down the heights that look so daunting on approach. View after view opens up as we travel through this astonishing landscape. Days are punctuated by welcoming huts, each one an oasis of rehydration, refuelling, rest, warmth and sleep (if you remembered your earplugs).
Reaching the peak of Pigne d’Arolla was an emotional moment for me. I’d never seen myself in such a place in any optimistic dream and I wondered why I’d waited so long to embark on this adventure.
The final day started before dawn. The wind was biting cold as we set off, hoping to complete the route. Thanks to Matt’s great leadership and an easing of the weather, we crested the final col to see Zermatt far below us and the Matterhorn towering above. Down we sped to a well earned beer, smiling all the way.
What a feast of rich ingredients go into this Haute Route Gateau, but the icing on the top is the people who travel with you, climbing the same hills, seeing the same views and sharing the laughter.
Thank you Mountain Tracks for making a 17 year old’s ambition a 50 year old’s achievement.
On the way up.....
Heading off into the distance....
A wonderful view from the hut...
Enjoying a well earned team beer at the hut...
Thank you to Wendy Shipley, who joined us on a Haute Route 14th - 22nd March 2009.
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