Chamonix Powder Skiing!!!

The first snows have fallen across the Alps this week. Sunday saw snow falling in most resorts across the northern Alps all day including Val D’Isere, the Trois Vallees, Chamonix and Morzine and there were reported accumulations of more than 40cm of fresh snow above 2000m.

This heralds one of the earliest starts to the season for a long time. Sadly much of it may not last much beyond the end of the week as warm southerly temperatures are due to arrive soon and stay for a few days. However at altitude the north and east facing slopes should stay covered now the days are getting shorter and colder.

I have been back in the UK for a week and was disappointed to miss the first snow fall in Chamonix town on Sunday. Even after more than 10 years in the mountains I still get that same excited feeling when I see the first proper snow fall after the long hot summer!

Having returned to Chamonix only late last night, I didn't want to waste any time and so myself and a couple of friends did an (almost) dawn raid before work up the Aiguille du Midi for a cheeky ski. Roger was late joining us so Emma and I headed off down the arête. It was windy and cold descending the steep knife-edged ridge so it was nice to get to the bottom and get our skis on. By this time Roger had caught us up and once we were all ready we headed off towards the Envers du Plan on the Vallee Blanche.

There had been at least half a meter of fresh snow but the top sections had been badly windblown. We all had some entertaining skiing for the first few turns including a quality head-plant from me! Thankfully we found a very good route past the first section of crevasses and headed on down some much better snow. The powder improved and with some whoops and shouts we all skied another 300m or so down to a flattish area close to the Gros Rognon. Here we decided we had skied the best of it and got ready to ski tour back up.

This was paying the piper and the price for the morning ski was a lung-busting skin back to the bottom of the arête. It is never easy going uphill at over 3000m altitude! Taking the line of least resistance we skinned back towards the classic Vallee Blanche route and joined some other skiers on their way back up from down past the Rognon.

The trip was also an opportunity to test the latest batch of kit from our sponsor, Berghaus. We've just received a new delivery of gloves and so I took with me their women’s 3in1 ski glove and can report they are wonderfully warm, cosy and comfy to wear!

The wind was still blowing hard in our faces as we climbed back up the ridge, past the 2 massive crevasses that are currently occupying the centre of the ridge...nice! Best not to look and just keep walking! After taking our skis off our rucksacks we were back in the cable car and down in Chamonix ready for lunch and an afternoon's work in the office!

Fingers crossed the snow will stick around and continue to fall through November and December and give us a great early season.

If you have not already booked your next exciting mountain adventure with us then check out our website www.mountaintracks.co.uk/winter for our selection of worldwide off piste and ski touring holidays and courses. Our winter brochure is also available in handy flip-book format - click here.

Here are some pictures of our mornings adventures!

Gulmarg Skiing Video

Adam has just finished putting together a new video using my footage from Gulmarg 2010

This should get you all fired up for the coming winter. There aren't many places where you can order a curry on the slopes every day! I spent over 3 weeks out there last winter and loved every minute (appart from Matt's snoring)!

Patience and a horizontal attitude helps to smooth Kashmiri relations. If you want genuine adventure skiing look no further.

See you there this season,

Olly

MPORA Action Sports >>

NEW for 2011...Ski Touring in the Lyngen Alps, Arctic Norway

(Photo courtesy of Lyngen Lodge)

The Lyngen Alps are an amazing natural landscape. Located in northern Norway well within the Arctic Circle this is a stunning area of remote islands, fjords and mountains. From February until May this is a fantastic playground for adventure skiing where you can ski direct to summit from sea level. With hundreds of ski summits to choose from there are endless options for groups of adventurous ski tourers.

For 2011 we are offering the choice of either a land- or sea-based (Ski & Sail) holiday - 7 days accommodation with 6 days guided ski touring with one of our team of UIAGM Mountain Guides. Maximum group size is 6.

The land-based holiday is based at the renowned Lyngen Lodge. Although the lodge has only been opened for a few years it has already established itself as ‘the’ place to stay, a relaxed and very comfortable base right on the shore of Lyngen Fjord. The perfect location from which to explore this wonderful area.

The sea-based holiday is run in conjunction with Boreal Yachting, and your home for the week is a modern and comfortable 45ft yacht that is fully kitted out for winter sailing in arctic conditions. In addition to the skiing, each member of the team will share the responsibilities for crewing the boat and help with anchoring, sailing, helming, preparing and cooking food!

Availability for these trips is very limited (see below) and are offered for ready-made groups only. If you and your ski mates (max group size=6) want to experience one of the world's most scenic and pristine ski environments, sign up NOW by contacting chris on 020 8123 2978 or emailing him at chris@mountaintracks.co.uk


Lyngen Lodge Itinerary
Day 1
Arrive in Tromso. You will be collected at the airport and transfer by road for the 2½ hour journey to the lodge. You’ll have time to settle in before your welcome meeting and briefing with the guide followed by dinner.
Day 2 – 7
6 days of ski touring. You can either ski directly from the lodge or you’ll be transported on the lodge’s private boat, ‘the Spirit of Lyngen’ (or by 4x4 or skidoo) to a new area where you’ll climb and ski amongst the spectacular peaks before returning by boat to the lodge in the late afternoon.
Day 8
Transfer back to the airport for return flight.


(Photo courtesy of Lyngen Lodge)

A typical day at Lyngen Lodge
Breakfast is at 7.30am (continental breakfast buffet). Climb aboard the boat for a short journey (up to 1 hour) to the trailhead for today’s ski tour which starts right from the shoreline. Packed lunch is enjoyed on the summit. Return to the boat and travel back to the lodge. You’ll usually be back in time for afternoon tea at about 4.30pm. Relax in the sauna or hut tub before evening meal which is served from 7.30pm – a veritable feast of fresh local produce. Relax around the lodge.

Boreal Yachting Sea & Sail Itinerary
Day 1
Arrive in Tromso. You will be collected at the airport and transferred to your boat which will be moored in the town’s harbour. Meet your skipper and get acquainted with the vessel including safety features. This will be followed by dinner on board. After dinner you’ll set sail for the first ski area.
Day 2 – 7
6 days of ski touring from the boat. At the end of day 7 you’ll return to Tromso harbour for the last night on board the board and an opportunity for some sightseeing around Tromso.
Day 8
Transfer back to the airport for return flight.

A typical day on the Boreal Yachting Ski & Sail holiday
Rise at 7 for a nutritious Norwegian breakfast. Transfer to land and enjoy a full day’s touring with picnic lunch. Rendez-vous with the skipper at about 4.00pm and transfer back to the boat. For those who fancy it, a quick dip in the arctic waters is a great way to freshen up! Apres-ski drinks, shower, evening meal and relax with a beer, watch a film, read the maps for tomorrow’s adventures before heading to bed and falling asleep to the gentle roll of the waves!

General information – applicable for both trips
Skills & Stamina
Previous ski touring experience (using skins) and good off-piste ability are essential. There are no lifts here and so you need to skin up to gain altitude. Most days will have 1200-1500m of elevation gain.

More about the terrain
The average summit heights are between 1000m to 1400m although it does go up to over 1800m at the highest point, Jiehkkevarriat (1834m). The terrain is mostly wide open slopes with typical gradient of 25-30 degrees although much steeper terrain is also available. Some excellent tree skiing.

Equipment
Alpine touring equipment with skins and avalanche safety equipment. Crampons, ski crampons, ice-axe and harscheisen are not required unless you want to do some ice-climbing – for which there are excellent conditions in February & March. Lyngen Lodge can supply all ski equipment but there is no ski hire on the Ski & Sail holiday and so for this trip you need to bring all your own gear.

Group Size
Lyngen Lodge – 6 with 1 UIAGM guide
Ski & Sail Boreal Yachting – 5 with UIAGM 1 guide

Price and Availability
Lyngen Lodge - £2,995 per person
26 February – 5 March, 2 - 9 April and 7-14 May

Ski & Sail Boreal Yachting - £2,295 per person
5-12 March, 23-30 April, 30 April-7 May, 7-14 May,

What is included in the price of the trip?
- 7 nights full-board accommodation (with breakfast, lunch and evening meal)
- 6 days ski touring with UIAGM Mountain Guide
- Costs of local transfers (on Lyngen Lodge trip where part of scheduled itinerary)
- Return airport transfers (from Tromso airport)

What is not included in the price of the trip?
- Flights or transport to Tromso - Flights from London cost from £230 per person. There are a few direct flights from London with Norwegian Airlines (www.norwegian.com) otherwise you’ll have to go via Oslo or another hub.
- Ski Equipment
- Personal Insurance
- Alcohol and other personal expenses or optional extras

Availability for these trips is already very limited. If you and your ski mates (max group size=6) want to experience one of the world's most scenic and pristine ski environments, sign up NOW by contacting chris on 020 8123 2978 or emailing him at chris@mountaintracks.co.uk


(Photo courtesy of Lyngen Lodge)

Winter season ends on a high!

Our winter season came to an end on 15th May with the completion of our Ski Mont Blanc week in Chamonix. Unfortunately the weather didn't allow our group to do the planned ski ascent & descent of Mont Blanc but the Gran Paradiso - highest mountain entirely within Italy - was an excellent alternative and the group achieved 100% success on the mountain. A great end to the week and to our season overall.

Here are a few pictures - thanks to Kazue Oshiro.

Merry Christmas Everyone!!

Over the last couple of weeks we have seen our first guests of the season out enjoying the early snow. Matt has been very busy teaching avalanche training courses in Chamonix, we have had a foundation and advance level course over the last 2 weekends and a second foundation course running this weekend. With a large amount of fresh snow falling as I type (its very distracting seeing the snow falling past my office window in Chamonix!) it will be ideal conditions for them to learn all the skills for avalanche avoidance. Maybe those of you with snow in the UK today can get out and do a little practice of your own!

Our Early Season Skills week in Zinal has been running this week with everyone enjoying good snow conditions despite the freezing cold but sunny weather. Claire Summer has been leading the trip and they have been perfecting their on and off piste technique as well as a few ski touring skills.

Olly and Jon are out today in the fresh snow with our first ski touring skills weekend in St. Gervais, our group of 10 avid ski tourers are out to learn all that is needed in hopes of taking on more challenging hut-to-hut ski tours later this season. These are great weekends for anyone wanting to tackle a multi day ski tour or if you just need to brush up on these skills and we have more planned for January and February.

With only a handful of shopping days left to Christmas and Ladbrokes giving a 7:2 chance of seeing snow in London on Christmas day its time to book your next great adventure with Mountain Tracks. We have availability on our Advanced Off Piste trips in Chamonix, Zinal and Engelberg as well as some spaces on our Piste Performance courses in January. Places on Remy Lecluse's Steep Ski Camps are nearly sold out with availability in March only and with lots of hut-to-hut ski trips and Backcountry Explorers to choose from; it will take your mind off all that Christmas shopping!

Seasons Greetings and good wishes for the New Year from all at Mountain Tracks.

'Curry Powder' Skiing 2010

If you have spent any time recently around Nick or Olly you'll no doubt have heard their tales of epic powder skiing combined with the wonderful sights and sounds of India on our skiing trips to Gulmarg in Kashmir.

Well, now's the time to get on board for 2010. Until July 1 our Gulmarg trips next year are on sale for a whopping £125 off the standard price. That's £1,400 for flights from Delhi to Srinagar, all transfers, 7 days powder skiing with UIAGM Mountain Guides, lift passes, 7 nights half-board accommodation in the Hotel Highlands Park in Gulmarg (twin-room), 1 night on a floating houseboat in Srinagar (twin room).

With round trip flights from London to Delhi with BA currently on sale for about £440 through www.expedia.co.uk, you can get the holiday-of-a-lifetime for under £2,000 all in...what are you waiting for!?

Find out more by visiting our dedicated Gulmarg website at www.ski-gulmarg.co.uk or call our office on 020 8123 2978.

But hurry...this offer expires on 30th June!

Chamonix ski touring weekend, 2 & 3 May

We had perfect weather for Peter and Anna's weekend of ski touring!
On the Saturday we set off on the Aiguille du Midi accompanied by Julie Slaughter and skied the Vallee Blanche round the bottom of the Pyramide du Tacul. Here we put on our skins and skinned up to the Col des Flambeaux, while on route being treated to the sight of a party skiing the first tracks on the Tour Ronde North Face, a route a lot of ice climbers aspire to! (check out the photo)



After lunch we decended the Vallee Noire to Montenvers, on mostly very nice snow. The Noire is an excellent alternative to the Vallee Blanche for better snow and less people.



On the second day, just myself and peter went up to Grand Montets, and after skiing onto the Argentiere Glacier skinned up to the Col Tour Noir on the Amethystes Glacier. It was a very hot day and Peter was 'hard as nails' skinning up in his Mantra skis with Marker Duke bindings, a heavy set up. After lunch on the col with superb views into Switzerland we descended beautiful spring snow back down. A great way to finish the season!

Thanks to Jonny Baird IFMGA Mountain Guide for this report.

There's still time to enjoy one last ski touring hurrah this winter...contact us for details!

Bernese Oberland April 2009

It was an ominous warning – at the pre-trip briefing in Interlaken our guides Matt Dickenson and David Vallet told the group the weather outlook was grim to say the least. A massive cold front was heading our way and our Bernese Oberland tour was heading right into the eye of the storm.

The next day we headed off to the Jungfraujoch known as the Top of Europe –but we didn’t get further then Grund before our train was turned back. High winds of 150 km/h had closed down the Jungfraujoch. After two hours, our guides decided to head to the other end of the Bernese Oberland traverse and we arrived at Blatten in the late afternoon.

We started skinning up the Lotschental valley in fairly poor weather, it was extremely windy and several of the team was blown over by the shear force of the strong gusts of wind. It was a long slow skin up to a hut that had only opened before the winter. And for the ‘hut virgins’ like myself, Annenhutte was a welcome site and by hut standards we were told, very luxurious - flushing toilets, running water and warm toasty duvets to keep the cold out.

The next morning we set out in a full blown blizzard. After a little traverse we were on the Lang Glacier. We made a 1000 metre ascent but the last 150 metres were the toughest of the trip. The Hollandia Hut was in our sights, but it was at the top of a very steep slope and in a metre of fresh powder, we battled the elements as the track was blown over within a matter of minutes thanks to the extreme wind. We all struggled up this final part, some of our skins froze and we were left to try and make our way on foot – an almost impossible task. Once inside the hut, we were cold, wet and tired. But hot tea and a tasty meal warmed us all up and we soon fell asleep physically exhausted.

Day 3 was not much better on the weather front. We’d been warned it would be a long day as we skied down in very deep fresh snow. We put our skins on and set off for Konkordia Hut – a 9km journey. Once again conditions were appalling. With David navigating the way with GPS in one hand, we skinned past crevasses, over snow bridges and finally ending up on the flat plain of Konkordiaplatz. It was by far the most mentally challenging day of the tour. In a total white out, we had no idea where we were heading or how long it would take, it was difficult to see any definition in the landscape. We just had to push on. Matt gave us words of encouragement along the way and eventually he pointed out the hut in the distance. It’s built on a rocky outcrop above a glacier but because the glacier has receded so much, the final 120 metre assent is on foot - up 433 stairs!!!

The morning greeted us with another bad weather day. After a 500 metre skin over a pass we skied down towards the Finsteraarhorn peak to our next hut. There was another steep 100 metre climb before we were indoors and relaxing with hot tea and beers.

This was the day we had all been waiting for. It was a picture perfect blue sky day. After days of extreme blizzards, fresh powder awaited us. We skinned up the Wysmollen, a 650 metre ascent to the summit. We skied down in fluffy fresh powder - we all savored the moment. It had taken 4 hard days to reach this goal. We looked back at our fresh tracks with great satisfaction – we knew the blizzards, the extreme winds, the cold and wet conditions had all been worth it. It was sensational and we all had huge happy grins on our faces.

The final day and we woke before dawn. As the sun began to rise, we set off on an epic 9 hour journey. We skied down the Fiescherberg Glacier in breakable crust and then skinned up 600 metres – using ropes we climbed up the Galmilcke Col. Then it was down the Minstiger Glacier in fresh powder. We saw natural avalanches as the day wore on and the sun warmed up the southern slopes. As we descended to the vally floor the snow turned to cement and it was tough skiing for a while. Thanks to the cold storm over the previous days, we finally skied out on a hiking trail all the way to the town of Munster. It was all over and we had made it!

Matt described our Bernese Oberland tour as one of the toughest Mountain Tracks weeks he’d experienced. It was a real ski adventure. Mother Nature had thrown her all at us – raging blizzards, extreme winds, total white outs and then perfect blue sky days. It was a tough week both physically and mentally – and as we enjoyed a few beers back in Interlaken we knew we had all risen to the challenge thanks to the guidance and encouragement of our guides David and Matt.

By Steph Kennedy

Final 2009 Haute Route

Despite the poor weather for the first 3 days, Klemen and I managed to battle through! One meter of fresh snow fell in 24 hours causing mayhem (not to mention tired legs breaking trail) Finally the weather cleared and we made a break for the final 3 days of the route. Due to the fresh snow we had perfect conditions over the Pigne des Arolla and the final days ski into Zermatt. Thanks to the group for their patience in the blizzards. Here is a link to the other pictures http://picasaweb.google.com/ollyguide/2009HauteRouteBest80

Cheers Olly

Val d'Anniviers

Big off-piste in the bowls of 'Orzival'
(with no body else in sight)




Eric and Penny Kendall and their beautifully renovated auberge.


The Val d’Anniviers (often referred to as the ‘Zinal’ area) has become my favourite ski destination. Big hills, high and comprehensive lift system, and multiple slope aspects are just for starters. There is no mass tourism, no high-rise buildings, and few skiers off the piste. The area is very traditional, with only tentative signs of new development. But most importantly, the skiing is about as exciting as it gets! 1500 m powder descents abound and there are many vast bowls where fresh tracks can be found even weeks after snow! (Hardly the case at the Grands Montets).

Here is a brief summary of the areas, all of which are included on the Val d’Anniviers ski pass:

ZINAL: Lifts to 2900m, Slopes facing East, West and North. Vertical : 1500m

The domain has excellent piste and off piste plus a dedicated free-ride area which offers a long off-piste descent. However the best and most adventurous skiing can be found ‘over the back’. The Sorebois lift takes us to the highest point and from there we start the classic journey to the Moirey Dam, this is the ‘Vallee Blanche’ of the area. From the Sorebois we can also access the vast north facing Chamois Bowl, which, if snow permits, gives us 1500m of descent, often in powder..

GRIMENTZ: Lifts to 2900m. Slopes mainly face East and North. Vertical : 1500m

Grimentz is the largest and most well known area. There is plenty of great off-piste in the domain itself, but the best powder is found in the north facing bowls of Orzival. The Orzival area is found to the north of the main domain and most of the terrain can be accessed without skinning. There is a good choice of routes all with approximately 1500m of vertical. These descents are not to be missed. Grimentz is also the access point to the Bec du Bosson area, this place is a paradise for day-touring, many classic and varied itineraries await.


ST LUC / CHANDOLIN: Lifts to 3000m, slopes face South and West. Vertical : 1400m

Zinal and Grimentz already offer a great deal, but then there is another first class area, included on the same lift ticket and a short drive away! The St Luc – Chandolin area seems to only attract piste skiers, leaving immense areas of untracked snow. There is some interesting day-touring to access the north facing slopes; in spring, huge south facing snow fields give excellent spring snow (when timed right!). The area also offers a wide choice of steep but relatively safe couloirs; in fact this area is perfect for honing steep skiing technique.

At the beginning of April Mountain Tracks hosted an advanced off-piste and day-touring week in the area. We were based in the small village of Motec, in a newly converted chalet. We were looked after in fine style by the owners, Eric and Penny Kendel who have created stylish and memorable accommodation. The auberge feels distinctly homely with a lovely communal area, kitchen and home-made food. Penny does all the catering herself and has an impressive eye for detail. The group found the accommodation aspect of the week different and enjoyable.

I want to recommend a trip to Zinal and surrounding areas to all Mountain Tracks clients, I’m confident that it offers everything an adventurous skier could wish for. Please check the website for our 2010 courses.

By Matt Dickinson

Bristol Grammar School Backcountry & Winter Skills Course, February 2009

Pristine touring above Grimentz.


Don't know how she 'got it' so quick, but she did!


The team posing with Chantelle, the most glamorous hut guardien in the Alps!


Mountain Tracks were proud to run the inaugural Bristol Grammar School Backcountry and Winter Skills course in February this year. We chose to host the trip in Zinal (Valais, Switzerland). The Val d’Anniviers (collective name of the area) offers vast scope and potential for adventurous skiers, and I personally rate this area as one of the very best places to ski in the Alps. The area is characterised by high alpine terrain, deep valleys and charming villages.

Based in the Chalet Alpina, we skied fresh tracks every single day and never did a run twice. There were 8 participants in all, 6 students (aged 17-18) and 2 teachers, Sarah Basset and Andrew Dimberline. The majority of the group were experienced piste skiers but had little or no experience making fresh tracks. The first few days were hard, with a lot of falls in the deep snow, however slowly but surely the group began to master the powder. One group member 'Jazz' became a stylish powder skier after just 4 days, and she carved beautiful 'S' tracks on every field.

All week we were blessed with both good snow and great weather, there was even a 15cm 'top up' mid week. One of the highlights was the remote trip down to the Moirey Dam. This is a famous and beautiful trip, and to be the first after new snow, it was very memorable.

A second highlight was our night in the Bec du Bosson refuge above Grimentz. The refuge is positioned at almost 3000m and has a panorama of over twenty 4000m peaks. Even though the temperatures at night fell to -30 we were given a very warm welcome by the guardian Chantelle, who made absolutely sure that everybody had a fantastic evening with fondue and card games. The next day we completed a long ski tour during which we never saw another person and again included plenty of powder skiing.

The young people found the week challenging and rewarding and a stark contrast to a conventional school ski trip.

Mountain Tracks specialise in guided mountain adventures and run frequent off-piste and touring weeks to the Zinal area.

Breche Puiseux...classic Chamonix Ski Tour

The Breche Puiseux is a classic Chamonix day tour! Access is via the Aiguille du Midi cable car from where you descend the VB to level with the Refuge du Requin and then head left and skin for 700m up over the Periades glacier. The terrain is glacial and as the photos show there is a 300m ascent up a steep couloir (40-45 degrees) - requiring ice-axe and crampons - to the col. From the col there is a great descent down the awesome Mont Malent glacier which takes you directly under the Grandes Jorasses, one of the biggest walls in the Alps...does it get any better than this!!?

Why not join Klemen or one of our other guides during your visit to Chamonix? Contact Susie at susie@mountaintracks.co.uk or call +33 450 34 14 57.

Thanks again to Klemen Gricar for the wonderful photos :)