Summit successes all round so far this summer

Klemen traversing the summit of the Matterhorn

The Alps have been blessed with amazing weather since the beginning of July and we have had almost unbroken sunshine for a few weeks. The temperatures have hit a scorching 35 degrees in places and it has been nice to escape up the mountain to cooler temperatures.

Our guides have been out leading trips across the Alps and everyone has enjoyed excellent climbing with ground conditions. Olly guided a group around the Swiss Valais and climbed some of the classic 4000m peaks in the area. Klemen Gricar, who many of you will know from the winter has been busy guiding in Chamonix and Zermatt for us. We have had a group successfully summit the Matterhorn recently, well done to Mark and Andrew for their achievements.

Mark, Andrew and Ross (guide) on the summit of the Matterhorn

Klemen has also guided Hayden and Clifford to summit four 4000m peaks above Zermatt, these were Roccia Nera, East Twin, West Twin and the Central summit of the Breithorn. They also completed ascents of Castor and Pollux to add to their tally; congratulations to them both.

Hayden and Clifford

Matthew Betts and his friends have just finished their trip to Chamonix and the Italian and Swiss Alps. After some warm up days in Chamonix they headed to Zermatt to meet Klemen for the Spaghetti Tour, which is an amazing circuit around the Matterhorn and Monte Rosa area. A report in this morning from Klemen says they climbed eleven 4000m peaks in 6 days, pretty good going.

Matthew and Friends atop the Breithorn

Olly has just set of on an ascent of the Eiger and Matt is away in Saas Grund with Karen and John for a week of climbing. We have a Haute Route Trek starting on Saturday and places still available on another from the 11th – 20th September as well as a Bernese Oberland Trek from the 4th – 11th September if you still want to get away into the mountains this summer.

View from the summit of the Dent du Geant down the Mer du Glace

We have also had some busy weeks in and around Chamonix, the Tour de France once again passed close by; with a stage finish in Morzine/Avoriaz. Lots of people headed across to watch and ride the climb before the riders passed though. Being a Lance Armstrong fan it was sad to see his chances of a podium victory disappear that day in a series of crashes during the day; but it will be interesting to see how Alberto Contador and Andy Schleck fight it out for the win.

We have also had the World Climbing Championships take place in Chamonix last weekend, watching the men’s and women’s finals of the difficulty and speed competitions on Tuesday night was amazing. The huge crowds erupted when French girl Charlotte Durif won the women’s difficulty. Ramon Julian Puigblanque from Spain won the men’s difficulty and afterword’s the crowds enjoyed the firework display to mark the Bastille Day celebrations.

Last Wednesday saw Glen Plake, now a Chamonix resident, and all time ski hero give a talk at the Cinema prior to a showing of the famous, cult movie Blizzard of AHhhhhhh’s. Mr. Plake was then one of the judges for the Nissan Outdoor Games held in Chamonix all of last week. 5 teams put together a short movie showcasing climbing, kayaking, paragliding, speedflying, basejumping and mountain biking. Some outrageous stunts were pulled including basejumping from paragliders, mountain biking off the ski jump in Chamonix and soloing some crazy climbing routs. Team Argon won the competition with their film, you can view all the films at the Outdoor Games Website.

Team Manchester Matterhorn

Team 'Madchester' on the summit of Pollux

Tricky rock sections on Pollux

Exposed snow arete on the summit ridge of Cator

Ministry of silly grins on the Riffelhorn

Despite some changeable weather team Manchester managed to bag some classic 4000m peaks. for the first two nights we stayed in the Eyas hut in Italy and summited the Brighthorn, Pollux and Caster. The team then decended down to Zermatt and a much welcome night in the Hotel. Over beers the last three days of adventures were discussed and bigged up! The narrow summit ridge and ice slope on Castor became steeper and narrower as the evening progressed. Even James's fixed rope incident got air time. On day four we climbed a seven pitch route on the Riffelhorn just before the storms arrived. Due to the bad weather the Matterhorn was off the radar so we had an exciting day descending the Zermatt gorge on airial runways and via ferrata's. In the evening we walked up to the beautiful new Tasch hut and attempted the Alphubel but poor weather faught us back. If you want to see more pictures from the week follow the link. Picasa Photos

Atop the Matterhorn

Keeping up the success rate, Tjalling Halbertsma, summited the Matterhorn 2 weeks ago with Tomaz Jakofcic as his guide. Congratulations Tjalling. Here are a few photos he sent us of his trip.

Tjalling and Tomaz on the top

One happy climber

Summit of the Riffelhorn

Success on the Matterhorn!

Congratulations to Anna and David, Elizabeth and Will who all made the summit of the Matterhorn today.

Matterhorn Climber week

Here's a selection of photos from our latest Matterhorn Climber week.
The group are currently (Wed 15 July) in Hornli hut preparing for the summit ascent tomorrow.

If climbing the Matterhorn is on your to-do list, we have availability on our final course this summer, 29 August-5 September. For more information click on Matterhorn Climber.

The Italian High Level Route

Nick Powell and Sarah Hart joined Nick during the last week of June for 6 days on the Italian High Level route...aka the Spaghetti tour!

They enjoyed excellent weather for the week and summitted on 5 4000m peaks only being thwarted on the Dufourspitze due to the amount of snow on the higher elevations.

The following photos are kindly provided by Nick Powell.



From Breithorn West summit looking east



The summit ridge of Castor



Nick, Sarah and Nick (Mountain Tracks) on the summit of Castor.



The view from the summit of Castor looking towards Pollux and the Breithorn



The south ridge of Lyskamm taken from the summit of Castor



From the summit of Castor looking SE towards Quintina Sella



Summit of Zumsteinspitz looking towards Dufourspitze (L) and Nordend (R)

There's still time to join us in the Alps this summer - click on www.mountaintracks.co.uk/summer for trip details or call our office on 020 8123 2978

Final 2009 Haute Route

Despite the poor weather for the first 3 days, Klemen and I managed to battle through! One meter of fresh snow fell in 24 hours causing mayhem (not to mention tired legs breaking trail) Finally the weather cleared and we made a break for the final 3 days of the route. Due to the fresh snow we had perfect conditions over the Pigne des Arolla and the final days ski into Zermatt. Thanks to the group for their patience in the blizzards. Here is a link to the other pictures http://picasaweb.google.com/ollyguide/2009HauteRouteBest80

Cheers Olly

A Ski Tourer's Tale of the Haute Route


A 17 year old girl on her first trip to the Alps was waiting for her turn to snowplough down a nursery slope in Zermatt as a group of weather-beaten, rucksack wearing; tight turning skiers appeared over the hill.
“Where did they come from?”
“Chamonix. They’ve just finished the Haute Route.”
She wonders if she’ll ever be good enough to do that.

Fast forward 33 years and I’m walking up the steps of the Couronne Hotel in Argentiere, skis in hand, rucksack on my apprehensive shoulders.
That evening Matt, our guide, talks us through the tour and asks what we’ve done before. Experience differs widely and we’re all looking forward to the challenges ahead. The banter begins and later, draught Leffe induces more laughter as the group begins to gel.
The next evening my bed is covered with a big mound of kit. We’ve had a warm up day and are getting ready to go. There’s much debate about what to take or leave behind. Ruthless decisions are made in the quest for a lighter pack.
6.30 alarm, breakfast, boots and off, heart thumping.
The next 5 days are a patchwork of sights, sounds, snow, sun, seracs, soup and skinning. Laughter threads the whole thing together. Long traverses lead to climbs where a steady uphill rhythm grinds down the heights that look so daunting on approach. View after view opens up as we travel through this astonishing landscape. Days are punctuated by welcoming huts, each one an oasis of rehydration, refuelling, rest, warmth and sleep (if you remembered your earplugs).
Reaching the peak of Pigne d’Arolla was an emotional moment for me. I’d never seen myself in such a place in any optimistic dream and I wondered why I’d waited so long to embark on this adventure.
The final day started before dawn. The wind was biting cold as we set off, hoping to complete the route. Thanks to Matt’s great leadership and an easing of the weather, we crested the final col to see Zermatt far below us and the Matterhorn towering above. Down we sped to a well earned beer, smiling all the way.
What a feast of rich ingredients go into this Haute Route Gateau, but the icing on the top is the people who travel with you, climbing the same hills, seeing the same views and sharing the laughter.
Thank you Mountain Tracks for making a 17 year old’s ambition a 50 year old’s achievement.


On the way up.....

Heading off into the distance....

A wonderful view from the hut...

Enjoying a well earned team beer at the hut...

Thank you to Wendy Shipley, who joined us on a Haute Route 14th - 22nd March 2009.