"India...the One land that all men desire to see, and having seen once, by even a glimpse, would not give that glimpse for all the shows of all the rest of the globe combined” Mark Twain
I looked forward to the Gulmarg trip for a long time. Gulmarg has become a legend for the adventurous skier and I was keen to get out there and see what it was all about. The 2010 season did not disappoint, and this trip will stay in my memory for a long time.
The Gulmarg adventure is not just about skiing; it's also about the voyage to Kashmir and the Himalayas, this is a fascinating part of the world from many different perspectives. Geographically the area is vast and stunning, flooded rice paddies dominate the lowlands, evergreen forests cover the mid-altitudes and finally the snows and high peaks dominate the high altitudes above. From a high place on a clear day, Nanga Parbat (8126m), the world’s ninth highest mountain, is clearly visible.
At the beginning of the trip we fly to Delhi, and then take an internal flight over the Himalayan foothills, to Srinagar the capital of Kashmir. This is a fascinating and colourful region steeped in history and tradition; the well publicised religious and political differences add further spice to the experience. From Srinagar, it’s a relatively short transfer by jeep up to Gulmarg itself.
Once settled into the excellent Highland Park Hotel in Gulmarg I was immediately impressed with the terrain. The principal peak is called Apharwat (4150m) and takes the form of a large dome. The top is fairly flat, but the sides are steep and convoluted, giving endless opportunity to ski wide couloirs and ridges. A typical ski day involves taking the gondola to the top, then walking / skinning across the summit to make different descents back down to base.
The mountains surrounding Gulmarg are made for skiing. Very few cliffs and impasses mean that you can ski virtually anywhere on the mountain. The vast majority of slopes are between 25 and 40 degrees, also ideal. There is a wide choice of descents, all which feel adventurous, long and varied. Most of the slopes are north facing however the convoluted terrain means that slopes of all aspect exist.
Ski guiding is all about selecting the right route for the day. Weather and snow conditions vary enormously, and couple that with differing expectations and abilities within the group, getting the decision right about which slopes to ski on the day is the key. When I arrived it hadn't snowed in a while so ski touring the wider area was a good option. I partnered up with Nick Parks and we did several very interesting journeys several miles away from the lift area. These days were rewarding for all, ski touring in a remote landscape, barely travelled before, a good alternative when the snow in the main area was less than perfect.
During three weeks in Gulmarg I experienced many different snow types. On arrival the snow was sugary which skied well in the forests and on northerly slopes, but was crusty on other aspects. However this soon changed as the snow came. At first new snow came in a little at a time, giving good fresh 'boot deep powder' every day.
After this period came a big dump, which at first lead to a high avalanche risk, with a meter of new snow sitting on an extensive weak layer of crystals. During this time careful route choice was imperative, and we used the terrain with utmost respect. The snow consolidated pretty quickly and after 2 days the whole area became open for skiing. These were the glory days. New snow, blue skies and the best terrain imaginable. Fantastic fresh track skiing was had by all. A top to bottom in Gulmarg is around 1500m and quite a trip in fresh powder.
All the people I skied with were tremendous fun and there was a real ‘buzz’ at the Highland park Hotel. This ski trip is certainly different from the norm and is a ‘must do’ for the adventurous skier.
Final verdict: A unique and unforgettable experience.
Why not join us in Gulmarg in 2011 and delight in the 'Curry Powder Experience'?
For full details visit www.ski-gulmarg.co.uk
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