Liz Jones has been climbing with Mountain Tracks for the last 3 summers. She specialises in hard Alpine routes, and is equally happy on rock, ice or mixed ground. Liz steers away from the big snowy routes and peaks, instead choosing technical climbs of high difficulty.
Liz lives in Yate, Gloucestershire and to prepare for Alpine climbs she trains in North Wales and the Brecon Beacons. If you live anywhere close to Yate, you may have been served by Liz in the local Tesco where she works.
MD:What inspired you to begin alpine climbing?
LJ: My first walking trip to Chamonix in 2000 inspired me to want to climb Mont Blanc, so I returned the following year with my then boyfriend and climbed with a guide. We did several easy classic routes which built up to an ascent of the Cherie Couloir on the last day. The boyfriend hated it and never returned but I was bitten by the bug and never looked back. I still haven't climbed Mont Blanc though!!
MD:How do you prepare for your Alpine climbing? What advice would you give to people before their climbing trip begins?
LJ: My preparation for a climbing trip. Mmmm, not enough!! I am lucky to possess a pretty good level of basic fitness from just general day to day walking the dog and looking after my horses. I supplement this with long hill walks and running. I try to make sure that I'm as fit as I can be, even if this means that I have to sacrifice climbing days for a good long walk in the hills. I find that I can get climbing fit indoors if needs be. In fact, I think that you can get a lot stronger by climbing indoors rather than messing around on easy rock routes. However, I try to make sure I get plenty done outside on long multi-pitch routes to get the head around the whole exposure thing, as the big routes in the Alps are on a whole different level to anything home here.
My advice to anyone coming out to the Alps for an alpine climbing holiday, whether to climb rock or big peaks, is to be as fit as you can possibly be. I also would advise getting to know which foods you like when you are being pushed to your physical limit. I find it really hard to eat on routes especially at altitude. I know from experience that I like Twix and saucisson! It's definitely worth getting as slick as possible with all your rope work too, it saves a lot of time. You can end up in some spectacular positions and the pressure is on to get everything right.
MD:What do your work colleagues think about your exploits?
LJ: My job couldn't be further removed from the mountain environment!! I work for Tesco as a checkout girl!! My customers have no idea that whilst scanning their groceries, my brain is working overtime planning the next big route in the Alps. My managers don't actually know what I do on my holidays, best not to tell them!! Some people there think I'm mad, as they are more interested in OK magazine and Eastenders, but a lot of my colleagues are very interested even if they don't actually understand exactly what I get up to.
MD:Describe a magical moment you have experienced when alpine climbing.
LJ: That is a difficult question as there have been so many. But if I had to choose one, then it would be sitting below the North face of the Tour Ronde, waiting for dawn to break. It was the first time I had experienced the alpine night sky properly, as we just sat and looked up, rather than walking head down. The sunrise was as perfect as the route. And we had that all to ourselves as well, which is rare indeed.
MD:How do you feel about the dangers associated with alpine climbing?
LJ:I have yet to experience a thunderstorm up close and personal, but hopefully by good planning, speed, and close attention to the weather forecast, it's something that I can watch from the valley balcony. There is always going to be danger in the mountains, and you need to be aware but not let it become an overriding thought, or you cannot get anything done up there. When the worry overrides the enjoyment, then it's time to give up.
MD:You tend to steer away from the big Snowy peaks, in favour of more technical routes, why is this?
LJ:I think that I'll leave those for the time in the future when I have worn out my fingers on the rock!! I do like a good view from a summit though, but I like to feel that I've had to work for that summit a little bit harder, hence the reason I like more technical routes.
MD:Which routes do you aspire to climb?
LJ:Routes that I would love to climb, well, there is an endless list!! But if I had to pick five, then they would be as follows. Cassin route on the Piz Badile, Freney Pillar, Walker Spur, Diable Ridge and the Ginat Route on Le Droites.
MD:What’s next for Liz Jones?
LJ:I would like to attempt some long ice routes in the Alps this winter. I'm also going to get as many days in the hills as possible as I am going to start working towards my International Mountain Leader qualification. I have made plans to spend three months in Chamonix next summer, with the intention of getting plenty of days trail walking for my logbook. This will of course mean that I'll be getting very fit, and I intend to put this to good use in the higher mountains as well, and will fit in as much climbing as my fingertips will allow!!
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